A Restaurant with a Fascinating History
Behind the name Ms. Dolores, the restaurant that is revolutionizing the Sant Antoni neighborhood, has a complex universe of interrelationships. Although the essence of the name is due to La Pasionaria, Dolores Ibárruri, political emblem of the labor struggle and feminism of the 30s, there are 9 more Dolores that Mathieu Pérez, chef and owner, admires, such as the singer Dolores Vargas or the fictional character of the series Westworld, Dolores Abernathy. A feminine world that is only the visible layer of what Pérez offers: as soon as you sit at his bar, you understand that what Pérez shows Ms. Dolores is pure against the grain, personality, risk and audacity.
A Retro Experience with a Modern Touch
Under the umbrella of a bar, with a simple decoration and the predominance of aluminum, Pérez wants to pay tribute to the popular Barcelona bars of the 1950s, a social and cultural epicenter in which a glass of young wine was witness to the fact that a city that was resurfacing, little by little, from the post-war period. The Xurrera fryer that shines in the middle of the bar is a total manifesto to this popularity of migrants, making the fried frother a flag to keep the roots firmly in their place of origin. Now, the fried is as much ours as a fricandó and we have Pérez to elevate it with personality and great dignity.
An Innovative and Bold Letter
To a short card of 5 fixed plates are added another 5 plates of suggestions, which change according to Pérez’s criteria and his desire to play. Yes, play, because everything Pérez creates goes through the fryer, without limits or orthodoxy. “One day, joking with a friend, I thought of frying a custard cake, I posted it on the networks and it went viral on an international scale, with crowds of people booing me for almost committing sacrilege” , explains Pérez, slyly. Yes, playing is the only limit imposed by this French chef of authentic character: in 2010, the prestigious Foodin guide awarded his restaurant Aux Deux Amis and in 2014, the Percherons project that opens in Ceret, pilgrimage center of many international chefs, attracted by Pérez’s irreverent cuisine. One day, it is precisely the Colombo brothers (Xemei, among others) who approach Percherons, fall in love with Pérez’s curious spirit and offer him the position of head of the brand new Bar Brutal, in Barcelona. In 2018, it would push the opening of Casa Bonay’s King Kong Lady, a groundbreaking project that, perhaps, came into our lives too soon.
A kitchen with its own character
Pérez returns with Mrs. Dolores on the front line and does so with a project that is a clear evolution of her kitchen. The creative talent of this chef is so vast that it needs an anchor point in order to find a definition. And although he doesn’t like definitions, the truth is that frying is the starting point for continuing to offer simple plated dishes (some on a simple waxed paper napkin) and combinations that defy tradition . From his churrera so much comes a beef cheek with barbecue sauce, a fried tongue with a bite that emulates the guilds, a lasagna or, what seems to be already, his flagship dish: incredible cuttlefish and pork meatballs. Heavenly bite, absolute filigree, where the juiciness of the stew that accompanies the meatballs has a vinegary finish (due to the pickled cabbage) that lightens the opulence with total elegance. And here is the second feature of Pérez’s kitchen: vinaigrette.
A Selection of Natural Wines
There is a third, which rounds it off: his passion for natural wines. Long before this viticulture philosophy came into our lives (with Casa Xica or Bar Brutal), Pérez (who is also a sommelier) was already a lover and these wines were the sole protagonists of every menu where he was the captain . Captain, although he leads with no desire to do so and surrounds himself with everything he likes and makes him feel good to offer himself to the naked and honest diner, from cult movie dialogues, soundtracks or alternative music playing at full blast to a shy smile when he serves potato churros or arancini to the clientele at the bar. We enjoy the bar, the show and the essence of a one-of-a-kind restaurant!